"Where did you get..."
Great question! Here is a list of everything I own and where I got it from. Additionally, HERE is a list of good medieval reenactment makers and smiths that you can window shop or contact for equipment of your own!
This list can also be used as a tutorial on what to get (and what to avoid) if you'd like to make your own late medieval archer, soldier, man-at-arms or knightly impression.
A lot garments would be infinitely cheaper if you made your own. For this reason I highly recommend picking up the Medieval Tailor's Assistant by Sarah Thursfield. There's PDFs online like the one linked, but you can also buy it on Amazon like I did!
Note: I am a man, so this list is for men's clothing and such.
BASE LAYERS
Every impression needs a basic set of garments worn underneath, regardless of social status or role! It's highly recommended to get these before you get anything else!
BRAIES
Braies are basically just medieval boxers. Linen underpants for men from the middle ages. Because I wear joined hose, I actually cheat and usually just wear normal modern underpants.
Where to buy:
I got mine from Revival Clothing
You can get a nice pair from Matuls
I highly recommend just making your own out of linen though. It'd be a fraction of the price and probably fit better. Nobody sees them anyways, so you have lots of room for error.
UNDERSHIRT
A simple linen undershirt worn under pretty much every outfit and harness. Mine is made of linen and is actually quite thick and stout, so I often wear my mail shirt over it with nothing else underneath. This really helps with heat.
Where to buy:
I got mine from Revival Clothing
You can get a nice one from Matuls
It'd be better if you made your own though.
HOSE
Hose are medieval pants and were worn by every social status for almost the entirety of the middle ages. Your goal with hose is to always have them as tightly fitted to the legs as humanly possible. Baggy hose that look like modern pant legs are not historical. For the 14th century and earlier, separate hose are what you should be wearing. I am cheating and own later 15th century joined hose. If you're planning on getting separate hose, I encourage you to get a belt that holds them up as well. You can find something like that here or make your own
Where to buy:
Separate Hose from Historic Enterprises
Joined Hose from Historic Enterprises
You can also make your own for cheaper.
FOOTWEAR
Medieval turnshoes are made in a way that there is no external stitching visible. They do not have heels, and often are just 1 layer of leather without a reinforced sole. I have a pair of boots and a pair of shoes. I had to modify the boots to remove a the heel they came with, but that was easy since it was just glued on.
Where to buy:
My Boots are from SPES MedievalMarket
My Shoes are from BootsByBohemond
If I could go back in time, I would absolutely get a pair of shoes from ANA Period Shoes over the above two options.
ARMING GARMENTS
Contrary to popular belief, "Gambeson" is not a foundational layer worn under plate armour. This idea was popularized by YouTubers and modern sport combat like Buhurt and HMB, where you absolutely need thick padding if you don't want to get injured. Modern sport combat is not representative of medieval combat, however. The armour is oversized, chunky, ill-proportioned and made to withstand every weapon being blunt. If your goal is to make a proper historical impression, avoid any website that sells Buhurt gear.
A good arming garment should be stout, well-tailored, and allow you to move your arms freely without the garment riding up. Most arming garments will have an almost corset-like cinching effect around the waist when laced up. The sleeves should be designed in such a way that when you lift your arms, the bottom hem of the garment does not move up. This is so when you're wearing leg armour, lifting your arms does not pull the leg armour up and impede your arm mobility.
Pro Tip:
You don't need an arming garment if you don't plan on wearing arm or leg armour. You can wear everything else over just a normal undershirt or tunic. Mail shirts, breastplates, brigandines, etc. All of those do not require an arming garment. The arming garment is so you can tie leg and arm armour to your body with laces known as points. If you're going for a lower-status soldier impression, you can save your money and ignore buying any of these until you get leg or arm armour.
ARMING DOUBLET
An arming doublet is arguably more appropriate for the later 15th century, but there are 0 off-the-shelf garments for the 14th century that I would recommend. So the one linked below is a great substitute. Notice how it's NOT padded at all. This is absolutely correct and is the foundational garment worn under full plate armour.
Where to buy:
HIGHLY recommend AD1410 for custom tailored arming garments. The wait list is usually around a year.
I got mine from Historic Enterprises
Quiverstock also sells one but I cannot vouch for how good it is, so buy at your own risk.
POURPOINT
A pourpoint is more appropriate for late 14th and early 15th century harnesses. I am currently on the waitlist for AD1410 to make me one. Pourpoints are depicted as being quilted and lightly padded, but are not gambesons.
Where to buy:
QUILTED / PADDED HOSE or CHAUSSES
These are generally not historical for the period in which full plate armour was worn (mid/late 14th century onward). Plate leg harness was worn on normal wool hose, so you can save your money by not purchasing padded hose.
ARMOUR
For armour I will ALWAYS recommend resisting the urge to buy a cruddy low-quality modern off-the-shelf reproduction from a mass-manufacturer and instead PLEASE save your money and get yourself a custom-made piece. Here again is a list of incredibly talented smiths who make wonderful reproductions.
If you plan on wearing garments over your armour (as you should for 1370-1410), you can actually get away with wearing lower-quality cheap reproductions, because they'll be hidden under the garment. I still don't recommend this, but if you happen to already own some you can go with this option.
THE HELMET WILL MAKE OR BREAK THE IMPRESSION. If there's ONE piece of equipment that I would say absolutely HAS to be custom made it would be the helmet. Helmets are the first thing people look at, especially visored ones. If it looks goofy, ill-fitting or ill-proportioned it will absolutely detract from an otherwise perfect harness. The unfortunate reality is that almost every off-the-shelf helmet out there is ill-fitting, ill-proportioned, or bad in other ways.
VISORED BASCINET
My visored bascinet is based on several surviving examples and isn't an exact copy of one single piece.
Where to buy:
Mine was custom made for me by Matuls. You can actually see it in the showcased images!
VISORLESS BASCINET
My open-face bascinet is based on several surviving examples and isn't an exact copy of one single piece.
Where to buy:
Mine was custom made for me by Dmitry Nelson. His work is absolutely incredible, but I can't in good conscience provide links or recommend him to anyone due to some horror stories I've heard from other people trying to purchase armour from him. His work is phenomenal, so if you do end up contacting him, do so at your own risk.
KETTLE HAT
My kettle hat is based mostly on manuscript art from 1380-1420. It has a high, pointed crown and a pointed brim, like was common at the time.
Where to buy:
Mine was made by Dmitry Nelson
Any good smith ought to be able to make a similar helmet though.
There are similar ones offered by Matuls or Lorifactor, but I personally don't like the look of them that much. Something looks a little off. The good thing about Matuls though is you can get one custom made, so you can copy mine if you like.
TEGULATED KETTLE HAT
My tegulated kettle hat is based on a depiction of common soldiers looting a building in the Chroniques de France ou de St Denis 1380-1400 manuscript.
Where to buy:
Mine was made by Dmitry Nelson
This is definitely something that has to be custom made or made yourself, I don't know of anyone that sells them off-the-shelf.
MAIL COIF
My mail coif is pretty heavily modified from the original product I purchased, but the modifications were very easy. If you cut away some of the fabric around the lower face, you can make the opening of the "balaclava" a little wider, but not wide enough that it droops under your chin. Then simply sew the rings back on and it's wonderful!
Where to buy:
Indian website known as HonorKraft. I do NOT recommend buying ANYTHING else from there lol
BREASTPLATE
My breastplate is a standard globose-styled breastplate found all over Europe in the late 14th and early 15th centuries. It is based on the CHS14 breastplate housed at Ruestkammer Schloss Churburg, Schluderns
Where to buy:
Mine is an off-the-shelf one from the "Leopold" line made by ArtosMunitorum. This is pretty much the ONLY piece of off-the-shelf plate armour that I can wholeheartedly recommend! HOWEVER. ArtosMunitorum just recently (as of 30 JUL 2026) experimented with making a batch of hardened breastplates which are very poorly proportioned and flat. They are aware of this flaw and will allegedly correct it in the future, but they are selling these breastplates at the moment. So I would wait until they correct this mistake.
GAUNTLETS
My gauntlets are a standard, universal "hourglass" style used all over Europe in the late 14th and early 15th centuries. They are based on, but not exact copies of, the extant R13 gauntlets housed in the Museo Nazionale del Bargello, Florence.
Where to buy:
Mine were custom made for me by Dmitry Nelson
MAIL GORGET
My mail collar, gorget, pisan, or standard was slightly modified by myself to fit better.
Where to buy:
Indian website called AllBestStuff
MAIL SHIRT
My mail shirt was slightly modified by myself so it isn't so long. I do regret this decision though lol. I wish it was a bit longer.
Where to buy:
Indian website called AllBestStuff
OVERGARMENTS
Overgarments include both military and civilian garments I own, often used for both purposes depending on how and when I wear them. If you're looking to reenact the late 14th to early 15th centuries, you really should be wearing something over your armour.
COAT
I have 2 coats, one a dark forest green and the other a navy blue. I use these as civilian coats, but also as jupons when worn over armour. If I leave them unbelted, they act as the loose, baggy jupon seen in lots of late 14th and early 15th century French manuscripts. I have removed the linen liner on mine because it is very heavy and hot with that still attached. It's much better as just 1 layer of wool.
Where to buy:
The "Leonard" Robe from SPES MedievalMarket
JUPON
I have 2 jupons, one a natural linen colour and the other a navy blue. The person I purchased these from typically makes low-quality modern box-shaped "gambesons" for LARP, and it took a LOT of convincing to get them to make a more hourglass-shaped garment. It is based on the extant Jupon of Charles VI. Personally I'd look at getting someone else to make one for you rather than the person I got mine from, but the link is below. I sometimes use the natural linen one as a stand-in lookalike for Gambeson / Jack. It's not as thickly padded as these garments, but it looks the part.
Where to buy:
Quilted Armor and Gambesons on Facebook
WEAPONS
ARMING SWORD (SHARP)
My sharp arming sword has been customized. I have made a custom "rain guard" for the crossguard and have painted the swordbelt to match examples of belts in manuscripts from 1380-1420. It came with a scabbard!
Where to buy:
ARMING SWORD (HEMA)
My HEMA arming sword has been customized. I have made a custom "rain guard" for the crossguard and have made a custom baldric / sword belt so I can wear it. It came with a scabbard! I highly recommend this sword for Reenactment and HEMA. I've used it in several sparring sessions and it has held up wonderfully to hard hits and parries. I removed the stupid belt hanger things the scabbard has on by default and made my own swordbelt using this tutorial from the Tod's Workshop Youtube channel.
Where to buy:
AvantArmoury on Etsy
POLLAXE
My pollaxe is based on a few shown in the Chroniques de France ou de St Denis manuscript. It's intended to be a bit lower-status than knightly pollaxes, but can still easily be used for a knightly impression.
Where to buy:
Custom made by Andrija Županović
CROSSBOW
My crossbow has a 500lb draw weight with a power stroke of about 6 inches. It is spanned with a goats foot lever which offers roughly a 16:1 mechanical advantage. This makes a 500lb draw weight feel like about 30 pounds. With how short the power stroke is, it's power is roughly the equivalent of a 100+ lb longbow, but I haven't actually done any real comparisons yet so take that with a grain of salt.
Where to buy:
Custom made by Tod's Workshop
BOW
My bow is an ash longbow with a 43 pound draw weight at (I believe) 28 inches. It's an absolutely wonderful bow for a beginner like myself, and is perfectly historical as well. Most "medieval longbows" I've seen on the market have an unhistorical leather grip in the center.
Where to buy:
HANDGONNE
My handgonne is loosely based on the Tannenberg gonne, the oldest European firearm that has been reliably-dated to 1399. I re-hafted it myself since the one it came with sucked and was wobbly. I also removed the serpentine lever for lack of evidence in the period I'm going for.
Where to buy:
If I could go back in time, I would prefer to have purchased one from ArmaBohemia instead.
STAFF SLING
This is a super fun little weapon that is incredibly easy to make and even easier to use! Literally anyone can pick it up and use it accurately within 5 minutes of testing.
Where to buy:
This one I made myself using THIS tutorial from the Tod's Workshop YouTube channel.
SLING
This one is a bit more tricky to use and actually requires a bit of practice to get good at. It's still fun to make and play around with though. In this period, hand slings were pretty much only used for hunting rather than war.
Where to buy:
This one I made myself using THIS tutorial from the Tod's Workshop YouTube channel.
SHIELD
My shield is a typical "heater" shield found in manuscripts from the late 14th and early 15th centuries. I have painted mine red and detailed it with a white border.
Where to buy:
RONDEL DAGGER (SHARP)
A good, sturdy dagger which looks nice and is sharp. The scabbard isn't very tight though, so it constantly falls out.
Where to buy:
Mine is from Tod's Workshop
RONDEL DAGGER (HEMA)
I actually prefer this dagger over the sharp one despite it being simpler. The blade is blunted and the tip is rounded so it's safe for HEMA and reenactment. I am currently having a custom scabbard made for it. The scabbard it comes with is nice, but I will use that for HEMA where it can get beat up.
Where to buy:
Dagger from Tod's Workshop
Custom Scabbard made by MR Lišiak
BOLLOCK DAGGER (SHARP)
Used mostly for civilian impressions, but I do often include it in some lower-status soldier impressions.
Where to buy:
Mine is from Tod's Workshop
ACCESSORIES
I have a large list of accessories and extra little things. It's entirely possible I'm missing some from this list, so feel free to contact me directly on Instagram or X if you have any specific questions
POUCHES
I've got 2 pouches. One's red and the other is black.
Where to buy:
The red pouch is from Lorifactor
The black pouch is from HistoricEnterprises (I think) but I can't find it on the website. Lorifactor makes really nice pouches anyways so I'd get one from them.
PLAQUE BELT
A knightly girdle or plaque belt made from brass segments. Not only is it incredibly stylish, but it also acts as a form of life insurance on the battlefield.
Where to buy:
Lorifactor makes insanely expensive custom plaque belts
But I got mine from a fellow named Jakub Vácha on Facebook. He only does this on the side so please don't spam him with requests. I'm actually not gonna link his Facebook profile, so if you REALLY want one, you'll have to contact me directly about it.